Franzesca Bistro: Raising the bar in Agia Paraskevi (UPDATE: Sadly this place shut down. Awaiting new adventures from this great chef)

Franzesca’s Creative Food Options

Sometimes even We, my other hungry half and I, can hardly be bothered to drag our weary bones to a restaurant far from our neck of the woods. This was one of the few times we decided to stay close to base. Fortunately, fate (and stubborn research) eventually led us to a little gem of a place close enough to home.

The recently opened Franzesca Bistro is located at the top of Agiou Ioannou street in the northern Athenian suburb of Agia Paraskevi. This main thoroughfare stands out mainly for its shopping and an ever increasing amount of cafes, lounge bars, traditional grills and fast food joints. It has always baffled me that this moderately well-to-do suburb lacked an availability of interesting  places to eat, let alone healthy ones. Locals may well be keeping their secret eating spots to themselves for all I know or perhaps, in judgemental haste, I may have overlooked the options. Whichever way, feel free to enlighten me, fellow eaters, if you can.

Therefore, welcome on the scene, Franzesca Bistro! This small restaurant has brought a breath of fresh air to the food scene in the neighbourhood. The chef, Xaris Antonopoulos, has created a clever, seasonal menu with Greek and Asian influences. The scope is to allow patrons to drop by for a tapa or two whilst enjoying a glass of wine. The small and varied offerings of the menu are meant to create an informal yet qualitative dining experience. There is a good balance of options for fish, meat and veggie lovers so everyone has a choice.

The meal was preceded by delicious bread made in the house and olive oil for dipping. We started off with the char-grilled vegetables with black truffle dressing, an apparently simple dish that strikes with the freshness of the raw ingredients and cooking technique. This green option sure beats the many tasteless versions going around in other places.

Ceviche

Next came the delicately prepared ceviche – very citrusy and marinated in coconut milk. I have to be honest. It is not my favourite ceviche in town – and I have tried many, believe me, being a sucker for this particular dish – despite the freshness of the fish and the original presentation. Probably too milky for my taste.

Meat tartare

Next up was the beef tartare. Interesting presentation with the raw meat encased within a few delicately, toasted slices of bread. The seasoning is completed with capers and coffee oil with homemade matchstick crisps giving the dish a crunchy texture. Definitely a winner, despite the fact that raw meat is not quite right up my street. It was more my partner’s choice. Just goes to prove that ability (the chef’s) and good raw materials can challenge and win over our personal food stigmas.

Seared scallops

Back to the seaside… The seared scallops with sweet potato puree totally won me over. These delicate things can be as delightful as they can be downright rubbery and tasteless. Bravo! Perfectly cooked with the delicate meat combining well with the sweet potato and the bed of white gazpacho.

Bao buns

Bao buns are slowly becoming the new street food trend in Athens so it was of course natural we try them out for further comparison. The trick with these little steamed buns is in the stuffing and the combined texture. We had the crispy duck with Mongolian sauce. This had a purely Asian flavour. Wonderfully crunchy, succulent and a satisfying ending to our brief meal.

Franzesca, I will return

The strength of Franzesca Bistro is that the menu allows for people to meet up in a casual environment to share a bite (hence the tapas selection) and a drink without compromising on healthy, creative and tasty options. It affords a special evening out and a break from the monotony that underlies the majority of eateries in the neighbourhood. The interior is simple but homey. An open kitchen allows for a more intimate setting with the jamon serrano on the counter providing a touch of Spanish tapas bar atmosphere. This place calls for drop-ins and is ideal for informal meet-ups. Seating is available outdoors in case of fine weather.

Service is friendly, knowledgeable and professional. I can only wish the chef and his team good luck in an otherwise uninspiring neighbourhood. Franzesca Bistro deserves to be rightfully appreciated and to earn a place on the Athens scene. As far as the desserts are concerned they will be taken up (or downed) during the next visit. Hopefully soon, because Chocolate Crème with sea salt, olive oil and thyme, Pistachio Pannacotta with lemon verbena and Almond Cake with pineapple carpaccio and coconut all sound pretty enticing to me. See you soon, sweet things!

A necessary “After word”: The evening at this place started off very badly, namely We – hungry – and both very tired couple were already at each others throats before we even ordered. It started with little nothings and escalated over the food order. Basically, I was into the fish and veggie options and He was on full pumped-up meat mode. I had threatened to leave the place within 5 minutes of being seated – and I was hungry – imagine that! It was the warm and easygoing reception of the staff that held me back that evening. Couldn’t leave those nice people thinking our hasty departure was their doing, now could I? So glad I stayed. By the first starter we were back to our amiable marital selves and the evening ended on a high note. (Having said that, next time it will be fish carpaccio and bao bun with prawns…) 

P.S. I guess it is inevitable I go back given Franzesca’s soothing effect on our temperamental characters.