Scorpina makes waves in Neo Psychiko

Scorpina fish taverna

There’s a new kid on the block. It washed up on the shores of Neo Psychiko at the end of January 2018. This new fish taverna called Scorpina – the Real Sea Food  has chosen this sedate and upscale Northern suburb renowned mostly for its fancy all-day cafes and bar-restaurants where locals can be spotted lounging over coffee or drinks and grazing on food.

The man behind this new project, Chef Yiannis Laikou, is no stranger to the world of fish and seafood having carved a reputation working in similar joints in Athens. Scorpina is his latest offspring and comes to enrich the ranks of other creative fish tavernas such as Travolta, Psariston, Argoura, etc, Athenian classics and favourites, thanks to their innovative approach to fish and seafood.

In Greece, this specimen called “scorpina” is mostly used in the preparation of fish soup, but this colourful, devilish-looking scorpion fish is popular for many reasons all over the Mediterranean region and Atlantic shores. It is a personal favourite although, no doubt, it will put many people off with its threatening bony spines, pop-out eyes and general rugged appearance. Indeed, this fish is a mean machine. Venomous at times, depending on the species, it is known as a solitary predator. Hopefully, that should keep it safe from the enforced communal life of fish farms. It lurks in deep, rocky habitats and comes out at night to hunt and feed on other fish, crustaceans and molluscs. Basically, all the bounty of the sea rolled into one. It must be that which accounts for its delicate, white flesh and tasty cheeks.

The locale

An Athenian friend recently commented that she found the place too posh for a fish taverna. I thought about it. You could say that the clean-cut modern design of the interior sets a cool tone in the general décor. Nonetheless, there are a few elements that do offset the otherwise monochromatic semblance and create a warm atmosphere.

First of all, the space is welcoming in that it is bright and airy. A central bar at the entrance of Scorpina provides a central point for a pre-dinner drink for those awaiting their table to be freed up. In the background you can get a glimpse of the half-open kitchen at the far end. The space is relatively big, but has been cleverly arranged in terms of tables being spread out in order to create different seating areas, inside and out on the terrace. Since I like to feel the action I prefer to sit indoors.

The crucial splash of colour comes in the form of a colourful replica of a scorpion fish dangling from the ceiling. The neon bright red and yellow hues betray a certain gaudy Japanese design. This “scorpina” likes attention and she’s getting it.

The next showstopper is the fish market-style marble counter where all the fish and seafood produce is displayed. This is the heart and soul of this fish taverna. Customers can hereby inspect the catch of the day, choose their beloved specimens and discuss with the chef or his aides in which manner they would like it cooked: fricassée style, roasted in the oven, fried or grilled. This pre-prandial bonding interaction sets the tone for the rest of the meal and sets us on the right direction.

The service is friendly but professional and steers clear of the stuffiness associated to high end eateries. The staff is well informed about the different preparations on the menu card and will discuss and advise you at length. On late Sunday afternoons, by the time patrons are feeling the effects of being happily fed and watered, the volume of the music is pumped up accordingly. As Greek tunes start to cover the airwaves, the atmosphere starts to resonate more of a lazy afternoon at a seaside fish taverna than that of the formality commonly associated with this affluent neighbourhood.

Catch of the day

After two trial runs I can gladly confirm that I will keep coming back.  Both experiences took place in different company and both resulted in two delicious meals for all those involved. Moreover, I am the kind of foodie who likes to sample and share as many dishes as possible so rest assured that I have covered substantial part of the menu card already.

Kicking off with a few starters

It starts well when you start with a local Greek delicacy such as taramosalata. This silky mousse leaves a lasting impression and is another one to be added to my list of the “best taramosalata in town”. If in doubt the option is to go with the duo of fish roe and then decide which one it is you prefer: there’s the classic pale coloured version and then the other version “dressed in black” i.e. mixed with cuttlefish ink. Delicately placed in four big spoonfuls on a dish and lightly decorated with some shavings of avgotaraho (similar to Italian botarga), this rich, slightly smoky, silky cream caresses your tongue like velvet. I may have lost you by now if you are not a Greek taramosalata fiend, but I tell you, this is food fit for angels.

Then we come to the raw preparations and this is the major testing point, because without the freshest of fish these dishes would not be the same. So we tried carpaccios, sashimi, tartares and ceviche.  All as it should be. The carpaccio of the fish of the day was delightfully balanced with chives and sea urchins providing the necessary salty element.

The wild sea bass sashimi is served pure with a few lime wedges, some soy sauce and thick sea salt (absolutely not necessary) on the side. All resulted in quite refreshing, clean starters. Just one negative note – to the kitchen staff – I understand it may have been a one-off, but upon my first visit the salicornes that accompanied the sashimi were way too salty which put me off asking for them second time round. As much as I am a fan of good sea salt I still want to taste my food.

The ceviche is probably one of my favourite starters. The chef has nailed it. He has managed to let the shrimps (from the Gulf of Amvrakikos) be main protagonist despite the addition of cucumber, celery and slightly spicy jalapeno peppers. The result is a flavoursome and well balanced dish. It appeals to the eye and the citrus dressing gives it a fresh, tangy finish. This one goes onto my other list: the “best ceviche in town” list.

For those more in tune with the traditional dishes there are enough options on the menu card. I would suggest trying the caramelised octopus which comes tender and sweet as it should be.

Fishy mains

There is ample choice of salads, seafood pasta, shellfish, and crustaceans to please everyone. We decided to go for the Lady of the House herself, the regal scorpina; the first time in fricassée mode and the second time, roasted in the oven with vegetables on the side. Our dinner companions opted for differnt things such as pasta with sea urchins, the seafood pie (so good that a second one had to follow) or simply revelled in the fabulous flavour of grilled Greek barbounia (red mullet). Everyone was made happy with their choices. No complaints at this table.

Scorpina fish taverna does dessert

A special mention goes to the desserts. Despite the fact we are usually busting at the seams by the time dessert is announced there is no way you can avoid tasting a spoonful of at least one of them. That was at least my initial intention, believe me, but it soon went out the window together with all other good intentions. If you like künefe you won’t be able to stop after one miserly spoonful. Now this dessert is more common inTurkey than in Greece and it is not that often you can find or eat one in Athens. In this case,  and lacking the necessary Turkish cheese originally used in its preparation, the pastry chef at Scorpina has replaced it with Greek anthotiro cheese and mascarpone and he has accomplished a good result I find. If you are not familiar with künefe just imagine a warm cheesecake style dessert topped with crunchy kataifi pastry and sweet kaimaki ice cream and, as the proof of the pudding is in the eating, just go for it.

Next in line, comes the common and over-exploited national halva cake, here in a very light and pure recreation. What’s not to like about this version even if you are not a halva fan which I am not?

Chocolate lovers, too, have an outlet for their sweet tooth and it comes in the way of a warm Valhrona chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream on the side.  I failed to try it as I had already gone overboard with spoonfuls on the previous desserts. To all those ladies who are on reduced calorie intakes I say: come on a cheat day and indulge! It is worth it.

Scorpina – value for money

When it comes to good food and a service that matches – and such is the case here – I don’t like to consider the bill, or as the Spaniards would say better, la dolorosa (the painful one). Money almost always seems to detract from the experiential pleasure. Let’s be honest. Fish is not a cheap commodity nowadays unless you go for the factory-bred salmon, tsipouras and lavrakis that fill up most fish restaurant menus. Scorpina’s prices are in line with the quality of the produce and their end result. As a customer you can take the adventure as far as you wish.

I, personally, hope to return frequently to Scorpina, purse and time allowing. This chef cooks straight to my fish lover’s heart. I like the concept; the chance to admire the catch of the day, to discuss its doomed and tasty termination on my plate (forgive me, vegan friends!) and most of all to appreciate the chef’s delicate preparations. So, unless the amount of digits on that slip of paper gets way out of control I am going back for my fish fix.

Okay, I’ll admit that maybe one thing is missing to make the experience really complete and that is proximity to the sea. Then again, truly good fish tavernas in Athens do not abound on the water’s edge so use your imagination and make do with the taste of the deep blue on your palate. I myself have a fertile imagination. It must be all that fishy phosphorus and omega-3 that I have taken in at Scorpina that is firing up my brain.

Indeed, this “scorpion” leaves a worthy sting, one full of sweet edible memories. I wish it well in its seafaring journey and sincerely hope it survives on Psychiko shores.